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North to South: An Arctic Farewell on Norway’s Fjord-Laced Coastal Route

This is a 4-part information article about a round-trip Scandinavia. These articles describe the motorcycle route ridden from the Netherlands through Germany and Poland, the Baltic States, Finland, and finally from the North of Norway back to the South via the Lofoten and Fjords back into Sweden.

1. 1. Part 1: Route Info Motorcycle Adventure from the Netherlands to Tallinn
   2. Part 2: Route Info Motorcycle Adventure from Helsinki to Tromsø
   3. This article
   4. Part 4: Route Info Motorcycle Adventure from Lillehammer to The Netherlands

This five-week, multi-country route is designed for the adventurous rider ready to leave the highway behind. Starting in the Netherlands, this journey weaves through Central Europe and the Baltics to Tallinn before heading into the stunning wilderness of Finland and the Lofoten and majestic fjords of Norway.

Note on the Route: This guide details a path focusing on scenic B-roads and sometimes includes off-road sections (gravel roads), providing a true taste of wilderness riding. The provided GPX file divides the entire route into 20 tracks, offering rough guidance for day-by-day planning. The original plan was to go via Haugesund to Oslo, but due to upcoming weather conditions, we had after the Geiranger Fjord opt for Lillehammer.

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The Fjord Ride South: Lofoten, Coastal Highways, and Mountain Passes

Leg 6: The Lofoten Islands and the Coastal Route

Tromsø to the Lofoten Islands

Your first priority after leaving Tromsø is addressing any bike issues. Head straight to a Motor dealer for any repairs. Be warned that specialty parts may not be in stock and could take days to arrive.

• Riding Strategy: The goal is to reach the stunning Lofoten Islands. The approach offers jaw-dropping views of fjords.
• Unique Stop: Keep an eye out for local attractions, such as an old woodworker's shop where machinery is still powered by water—a fascinating glimpse into Norway's past.
• Stopover Suggestion: Finding a campsite on the approach to the islands can be difficult; be patient and prepared to stop at a site that mainly caters to campers.

Exploring the Lofoten Islands (Svolvær to Moskenes)

Take at least two full days to explore this spectacular chain of islands, which are connected by striking bridges and winding, scenic roads.

• Scenery Tip: While the views are spectacular, pull-off spots for photos are surprisingly scarce, so the best views may be the ones you keep in your memory.
• Budget Alert: Meals here, even simple ones like fish and chips in Svolvær, can be expensive. Be prepared for high Norwegian prices.
• Wildlife Encounter: Watch out for the fearless seagulls on restaurant terraces and campsites; they are expert scavengers!
• Stopover Suggestion: Look for spots like Kabelvåg Feriehus & Camping. Use sites like ACSI to find locations that accommodate tents among the vast number of campers. The facilities often include kitchens, allowing for better meal preparation.

Moskenes to Bodø (Ferry Crossing)

Wrap up your time on the islands by riding the final stretch down to Moskenes to catch the ferry to Bodø.

• Rider Alert: Camper Traffic: Even in early summer, the narrow Lofoten roads can become clogged with slow-moving motorhomes. Anticipate delays and cautious braking on the bridges.
• Ferry Logistics: The ferry ride from Moskenes to Bodø takes around 3.5 hours. Plan to grab a quick snack onboard.
• Stopover Suggestion: Camp Saltstraumen, just outside Bodø, offers a great base. While views of the Saltenfjord are prized, the campsite is often packed.

Bodø to Kilboghamn (The Coastal Ferry Gauntlet)

Today is defined by the ferry crossings along the famous Coastal Highway (RV17). This route showcases the dramatic shift from rugged mountains to deep fjords and tranquil inlets.

• Ferry Logistics: You will likely take three ferries today, with stops at points like Meløy and Jektvik. Be aware that long rest periods, especially on Sundays (e.g., 12 PM to 2 PM), can cause significant delays, so stock up on lunch supplies to eat on the quayside while you wait.
• Highlight Moment: The ferry crossing near Kilboghamn marks your official departure from the Arctic Circle, as you head south along the beautiful Helgeland coast.
• Culinary Stop: Look for unique local roadside gems, such as Lor’s Thaimat & Kafe, which offer a surprisingly delicious change of pace with homemade Thai food.

Kilboghamn to Høylandet (Coastal Highway RV17)

Continue your descent along the scenic RV17. This section offers some of Norway's most spectacular coastal riding.

• Ferry Logistics: Even when ferries are short, be prepared for a shortage of tie-downs for motorcycles. Most riders simply leave the bikes on their side stands and hope for the best!
• Route Highlight: The RV17 is an ideal road for motorcyclists: winding, often hugging the coastline, and passing through picturesque villages.
• Rider Tip: Since many travelers follow the same route, you will see familiar faces at each ferry crossing. Motorcyclists and cyclists always get priority boarding.
• Stopover Suggestion: Search for campsites like Flåt Camping near Høylandet, a cozy farm setup next to the river, allowing for a fast morning pack-up.

Leg 7: Central Norway’s Heartlands

Høylandet to Orkanger (Trondheim Area)

Today is a long but rewarding day. Start on scenic backroads, snaking through the landscape before merging onto the E6, Norway’s main highway.

• Lunch Spot: Stop in Levanger, a charming town on the Trondheimsfjord. Find a park near the modern Snekkarberget Bridge for a picnic lunch.
• Town Highlight: Orkanger is your stopover, a town with a strong industrial history. Take a stroll to see sites like the Norway Building, a unique wooden church originally built for a World's Fair in the U.S.

Orkanger to Molde (Coastal Ride & Cabins)

Enjoy more of Norway's fantastic winding roads, twisting along fjords and through forests.

• Ferry Logistics: Expect short, frequent ferry crossings. To save time, don't bother taking off your gear for a 15-minute trip, but remember to be quick to overtake the slow-moving motorhomes after disembarking to enjoy the scenery.
• Stopover Strategy: As you approach the coast near Molde, check the forecast. If heavy rain is expected, it's worth the extra cost for a cabin at a site like Kviltorp Camping. The comfort and convenience (dry gear, nearby supermarket) are worth the splurge.
• Cabin Check: Be aware that the online price might be inflated at reception to cover non-negotiable cleaning and linen fees.

Molde to Dombås (Iconic Passes and Reroutes)

Today is meant for iconic Norwegian roads, but be ready for surprises and quick changes.

• Rider Alert: The famous Trollstigen and Geiranger Fjord pass may be closed due to falling rocks, even after having recently reopened. Be prepared for a d-tour.
• Tourism Warning (Geiranger): The Geiranger Fjord viewpoint is often packed with cruise ship traffic, including slow, rented four-wheelers that clog the tight, steep switchbacks. Expect traffic chaos.
• Riding Conditions: The high mountain roads surrounding Geiranger can still have snowy roadsides, with temperatures dropping to 2∘C—bundle up!
• Stopover Suggestion: Head eastward toward the drier weather near the Swedish border. Look for hostels like Trolltun Hotell og Hytter in Dombås, which may offer spacious rooms at camping-level prices. Treat yourself to local delicacies, such as elk, at the hostel's restaurant.

Dombås to Lillehammer Area (Final Push South)

Enjoy the final serene mountain roads before crossing into Sweden.

• Roads: Follow scenic backroads through the mountainous terrain, avoiding the main highways for a smooth ride with breathtaking views and minimal traffic.
• Lunch Spot: Look for unexpected picnic spots near local supermarkets, which can offer a unique vantage point on Norwegian life (like watching a vibrant summer camp tournament beside a solemn churchyard).
• Stopover Strategy: As you near Lillehammer, persistent wind might make a tent uncomfortable. Opt for a cheap cabin at a spot like Sveastranda Camping on the banks of Lake Mjøsa.
• Culinary Highlight: Be sure to try lapskaus (traditional Norwegian stew) paired with flatbrød (crispy flatbread)—comfort food perfect for a cool evening.